Chamonix, Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi
"The immensity of these aerial summits excited when they suddenly burst upon the sight, a sentiment of ecstatic wonder, not unallied to madness."
- Percy Bysshe Shelley on Mont Blanc
Leaving the Lauterbrunnen Valley, the drive meanders up through narrow mountain passes, climbing past scenic villages and mountain lakes on the way to Chamonix, France. Chamonix is home to the grand Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi.
Chamonix lies at the base of Mont Blanc, delivering spectacular views from everywhere in the city. Chamonix is a popular winter sports resort town. Mark Twain once described Chamonix as "the death-sport capital of the world" because of its base for the more extreme outdoor sports.
The Main Course
Chamonix
The resort village of Chamonix is simply enchanting. The streets are teeming with tourists and locals, but somehow, it doesn't seem overcrowded. There is a bustling main avenue with a maze of side streets crammed full of restaurants and shops and on weekends, a busy outdoor market. Mont Blanc is ever present at the end of the main street, hovering over the village as a wildly flowing river surges through the middle of town, arched over by wooden bridges. There are colorful hang gliding parachutes saturating the skies throughout the day. |
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Buildings are adorned with colorful flowers and flags, reminiscent of a Monet painting. Dogs are everywhere, dragging along their owners for walks. At night, the streets come to life with the sound of street musicians singing and playing an assortment of instruments.
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The Aiguille du Midi
Traveling up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi, I wasn't sure what to expect, but I was soon to be richly rewarded for the journey. Dave and I boarded a gondola with about 50 other riders and climbed from the valley floor to a height of over 12,600 feet. AS the gondola zipped ever upward, the mountain rose up before my eyes and I felt myself trying to catch my breath as I stared in awe. Once the gondola arrived at the top, I found myself gazing out at the most astonishing sight. |
There were clouds ringing the mountains and the snow capped peaks were jutting out above the billowy haze. I was above the clouds with my feet on the ground!! Peering straight out, I could glimpse Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. It was standing there in all its majestic beauty - jagged rocks cloaked in soft white snow, surrounded by its lesser subjects that were just as awe-inspiring..
Hiking the Plan de L'Aiguille
Half way down the Aiguille du Midi lies the Plan de L'Aiguille. A hiking trail initiates from this point down to Montenvers., where a train will take you back to Chamonix. The trail runs along a ridge of the mountain, with breathtaking views of the valley and the mountains above. Planting my feet firmly on an Alpine mountain, I felt the rocky surface of the earth as I climbed up and over boulders on my way to an ancient melting glacier. |
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The panoramic vistas of the valley below and the mountains on the opposite side were stunning. I realized suddenly that I was breathing deeply and feeling very contented. There were flowers of all colors in bloom, accenting the trail along the way. The trail was very rocky and there were some enormous ups and downs, but this just made the hike all the more fulfilling. At the very end, there is a remnant of an old melted glacier and a lovely restaurant where you can refuel before the train ride down the mountain.
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The Other Side of the Valley
We stayed in Chamonix for two days after the tour ended to relax and enjoy some additional food and sights. After hiking for three and a half hours the day before, we opted to ride. Exploring our options, we decided to travel up the opposite side of the valley in order to view the area we had just hiked from a different perspective. We hitched a ride up the lift to L’Index, a rocky barren peak with patches of snow still on the ground. It was freezing at the top. |
We looked around for a brief time, then decided to take the lift down to de la Flegere for some hot chocolate and apple tart. Riding down the lift and sitting outside the hut looking out over the mountains, we had an excellent view of the ground we had covered the day before. After our warm drink and sweet tart, we took another lift down to the tiny town of LaPraz, a colorful, neatly landscaped village with interesting shops and a made-for-us lunch stop.
Culinary Delights
The staff at our hotel recommended an absolutely delightful authentic French restaurant named Cousin Albert, less than a block from the hotel. The staff spoke almost no English, which made it quite interesting. They did have English subtitles so we could order with no trouble. I had the Pavé de rumsteak Sauce St Marcellin with Gratin dauphinois (steak and potatoes) and Dave had the Poulet fermier de la Dombes aux morilles & Pâtes fraîches (free range chicken with mushrooms and fresh pasta). The steak was perfectly seasoned and cooked and the potatoes were gooey, soft and delicious. Dave's chicken was moist and succulent and the fresh pasta was perfectly al dente. Afterwards, we enjoyed a creme brulee with a wonderfully creamy custard base. We thought this was one of the best restaurants in town. As you'll see later under "Local Flavors", the chef was quite comical too.
After our long hike across the Plan de L'Aiguille, we chose to dine at the Grand Hotel du Montenvers, a classic old hotel sitting at the end of the trail near the train station. The outdoor dining, which is in high demand, has imposing views of the surrounding mountains. Inside, the dining room is old school, with wood paneled walls and quite dark. We both decided on the French dish tartiflette, made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onion. The dish was rich in flavor, cheesy and delicious, but very heavy.
Our final night of the tour, we all joined together for a great dinner at La Caleche. We experienced the authentic French dish, Raclette. The modern way of serving raclette uses an electric table-top grill with small pans to heat the slices of cheese. The cheese is melted and then served with potatoes and dried meats. It is similar to fondue, except that dried meats are used in place of the traditional fresh meats. After trying it, my opinion is that it is an acquired taste!
Delicious Moments
The first view of Mont Blanc from our hotel window. Imagine arriving in the French Alps, checking into your hotel and throwing back the drapes only to be struck by the awesome sight of Mont Blanc. It seemed as if the mountain was following me around the town and no matter where I traveled, there it was, the grand mountain. It seemed as if it was watching over me. |
Hiking down to the ancient glacier. As we climbed ever downward toward the melting ice of the receding glacier, I was struck by an awareness that I was viewing something that was rapidly vanishing and soon would no longer exist. I was thankful that I had the opportunity to see it before it disappeared. |
The Local Flavors
The Local Cheffie. One of my favorite moments was dinner at Cousin Albert. The chef brought out a plate to the party next to us, but we didn't recognize it. When we asked what it was, the chef tried his best to tell us, but couldn't. So, he started jumping up and down, saying "frog, frog". Ah, finally we realized it was frog's legs. Everyone was laughing hilariously. After dinner, he brought out a bottle of clear liquid and served it to us and the other party nearby in cordial glasses. It tasted like lavender soap. When I asked if it was lavender, he said "No, it is a plant that grows in the mountains". When I asked if this was a joke he played on Americans, he assured me "No, no, we all drink it". I'm still not sure I believe him.
Musicians singing in English. I'm always amused that the Europeans street performers select American songs and sing them in English. Even more amusing is how they always manage to choose the songs that were hits here twenty and thirty years ago.
If you go.... consider sneaking in a lightweight pair of hiking boots for the Plan du Midi. I thought my Mephisto walking shoes were sturdy enough, but hiking boots would have been welcome. Don't forget to throw in some water and some snacks for the hike, since it takes most people around three hours.
Musicians singing in English. I'm always amused that the Europeans street performers select American songs and sing them in English. Even more amusing is how they always manage to choose the songs that were hits here twenty and thirty years ago.
If you go.... consider sneaking in a lightweight pair of hiking boots for the Plan du Midi. I thought my Mephisto walking shoes were sturdy enough, but hiking boots would have been welcome. Don't forget to throw in some water and some snacks for the hike, since it takes most people around three hours.