Lauterbrunnen Valley
"It is in shape like the tail of a white horse streaming in the wind.... The immense height gives it a wavering curve, a spreading here and condensation there, wonderful and indescribable." - Lord Byron, on Staubbach Falls
Leaving Germany, we traveled on to Switzerland, past rolling green meadows and azure blue lakes. After skirting the area of Interlaken, we made the final turn into the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Lauterbrunnen means "many fountains", which perfectly suits a valley ringed with waterfalls, most famous of which is Staubbach Falls. The valley is known as one of the most impressive trough valleys in the Alps, surrounded by mountain peaks and tumbling cascades thundering down toward the valley floor.
The Lauterbrunnen Valley also features dramatic views of the Jungfrau, one of the premier peaks of the Bernese Alps. The Jungfrau joins with the Eiger and Monch mountains to form "The Top of Europe". From the valley floor, the Jungfrau thrusts through the clouds and rears its mighty peak for all to see.
The Main Course
Lauterbrunnen
The namesake town of the Lauterbrunnen Valley lies along the valley floor. Delightful views of Staubbach Falls and the Jungfrau enchant visitors who come to this magical valley. The diminutive village draws hikers, skiers and sightseers wanting to experience the grandeur of the legendary mountains. Small resort hotels with colorful flower boxes line the narrow streets, along with a number of restaurants and delis. The train that begins the journey to the Jungfrau leaves from the Lauterbrunnen train station. |
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Murren and the hike to Gimmelwald
Standing in the cable car lift as we rise above Lauterbrunnen, I feel as if I can see forever. The views across the valley are magnificent. The car stops at Grutschalp, which is actually just a place from which to decide the next leg of the journey to Murren. Hiking is one option, but we chose to board the train. Alpine train travel can be quite unpredictable, but fun. |
The train rumbled along a narrow rickety track clinging to the edge of the mountain. I marveled at the engineering it must have taken to place the tracks there and to keep them there! Murren is a small town situated high above the valley floor. There are a few hotels and restaurants, funny painted water hydrants and great vistas of the valley and the mountains across the way. As we hiked along, hang gliders quietly floated on the breeze, while quaint houses with rabbit pens and wildflowers lined the road leading out of Murren on the way to Gimmelwald. Hiking the steep winding road down to Gimmelwald provided an unobstructed view of the neighboring mountains and the valley below.
Gimmelwald
I'm not quite certain, but I believe that the word "Gimmelwald" must mean fairy tale. What else would you call an idyllic little village that sits perched on the side of a mountain, has no car traffic and brings to mind a time long ago when people lived off the land. As I walk about the town center, I vaguely recall childhood stories of the Alps and I'm sure this must be where they were set. I sense that I am in another universe, unlike any place I've ever visited. Gimmelwald is a scattering of neat little houses where cows and goats graze, chickens cluck, gardens grow and wood is chopped and stacked for the winter. |
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Streams flow down over the rocks and multi-colored flowers bloom. There is a cheese maker with cheeses for sale, a hotel and a hostel. Dogs bark as you walk by and the locals wave. Gimmelwald has less than 150 residents and most have the same two or three surnames. Rumor has it that you are welcome to visit, as long as you don't plan on staying.
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The Jungfrau
The sun was rising and I had butterflies in my stomach. We were waiting to begin our journey to the Jungfrau. Years ago, I had watched a show about the Jungfrau observation tower. I was dumbfounded to see that such a remarkable place existed. My yearning began that day and I was sure that one day, I would visit. Today was that day. We stepped on the train and began slowing climbing to Kleine Scheidegg, where we would board the cogwheel train and climb to the highest railway station in Europe, the Jungfraujoch. |
The journey was long but as I stood gazing out from the Sphinx Observation Tower at over 11,300 feet high, I had no thoughts except how spectacular the views were. The brown, rocky mountain faces crowned with gleaming ice caps beneath a pure blue sky as far as the eye could see and the thick pockmarked frozen glaciers clinging to the rocks were unimaginably magnificent. I had no words, only deep breaths as my eyes opened wide and my mind stored the memories away for a rainy day. As we stepped outside for an unobstructed view of the frozen panorama, I felt the coldness of the air against my skin and thought to hurry back inside to the warmth, but the snowy wonderland captured me and kept me there just a little longer.
Visiting the ice palace is a chilly, slip sliding adventure as you make your way along the freezing halls deep beneath the ground. The ice sculptures along the way are quite entertaining. Be sure to go slowly and hang on tight!
Visiting the ice palace is a chilly, slip sliding adventure as you make your way along the freezing halls deep beneath the ground. The ice sculptures along the way are quite entertaining. Be sure to go slowly and hang on tight!
Culinary Delights
Our hotel, the Hotel Oberland, has been referred to as the best place in town to eat, at least according to its website. We had decided during our trip planning that we were going to try the traditional dish of Rösti, which is made with coarsely grated potato, either cooked or raw. Although basic rösti consists of nothing but potato, other ingredients may be added, such as bacon, onion, cheese, apple or fresh herbs.. Many Swiss people consider rösti a national dish, but in the Swiss popular consciousness, rösti is eaten only in the German-speaking part of the country. It is considered a stereotypical identifier of Germanic culture, as opposed to the Latin one. The line separating the French and German speaking sides is jokingly called the Röstigraben, literally the "rösti ditch". I chose the Farmer Rosti with potatoes, cheese, ham, onions and mushrooms. The flavors of the slow cooked potatoes melded together with the cheese and ham was luscious tasting. David tried the Walliser Rosti, a veggie version with tomatoes and declared it delectable also. Warning: Rösti can cause extreme fullness and lethargy. You must try it, but be prepared! For dessert, we shared a sweet goodness called Meringue mit Schlagrahm und Eiscrème (meringue with whipped cream and ice cream)
Delicious Moments
The forever views from the Jungfrau. The mountain had long been at the top of my "bucket list". Standing in the observation tower and gazing out at the snow capped mountain peaks as far as the eye could see was other worldly. Thousands of miles across the ocean by airplane, hundreds of miles by tour bus and then a slow climb to the top aboard an Alpine train and I was finally here. The feeling was surreal, and worth every mile of the journey.
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Alpine Valley views. As I soaked in the views of the valley floor from Murren and Gimmelwald, the tranquility and beauty were breathtaking. While the views from the valley floor up to the Jungfrau are stunning, the downward views from the peaceful hillside villages are equally as incredible. Looking up from the valley and down from the hills provides two very different perspectives, each special in its own way.
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Flowing waterfalls. The valley is ringed with waterfalls. Staubbach Falls is the most well known, but gazing around the valley delivers a view of waterfalls throughout the mountains. Just as the views from the top and the bottom are extraordinary, a gaze around the valley can also provide exceptional views.
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The Local Flavors
Dog lovers. The locals can only be described as dog lovers. They take their dogs everywhere, even on buses, trains and in restaurants. Often, you will find yourself squeezing close to strangers to make room for the dogs!
Cheese, flowers and wood. The locals in the small villages above the valley are very industrious and self-sufficient. They farm goats and cows and make cheeses. We passed a myriad of flower and vegetable gardens. One of the things that most impressed me were the rows and rows of chopped and split wood, stacked under sheds just waiting for the winter season. Just a guess, but I think it must get really cold here in the winter.
Cheese, flowers and wood. The locals in the small villages above the valley are very industrious and self-sufficient. They farm goats and cows and make cheeses. We passed a myriad of flower and vegetable gardens. One of the things that most impressed me were the rows and rows of chopped and split wood, stacked under sheds just waiting for the winter season. Just a guess, but I think it must get really cold here in the winter.
If you go... Plan to get up early for the trip to the Jungfrau. The clouds roll in later in the day, so your best chance of views is
early. Besides, if you go early, you’ll
beat the crowds, and it does get busy. Don't miss a trip up the opposite side of the valley to Murren and Gimmelwald. You’ll love the little towns, the slow pace and the natural beauty. You can take the lift up and hike down.