The Dolomites
"...the famous Dolomites, whose ghostly fingers, sparkling with glacier jewels, rise now and then above the lesser mountains in the foreground, beckon mysteriously to us for a moment, and then disappear." - John Stoddard
Leaving Lake Hallstatt, the drive crosses the Sill River Valley just north of the famous Brenner Pass via the Europabruck (the Bridge of Europe). Dazzling emerald valleys and Alpine mountains emerge along the way as you travel to Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, in Italy.
The craggy Dolomites are located in northeastern Italy. Although technically part of the Alps, the Dolomites are striking in their unique formations and coloring, No matter what part of the Alps you may have visited, a hike through the Dolomites is like no other. In the words of John Ball, a visitor "who has visited all the other mountain-regions of Europe, and remains ignorant of the scenery of the Dolomite Alps has yet to make acquaintance with Nature in one of her loveliest and most fascinating aspects."
The craggy Dolomites are located in northeastern Italy. Although technically part of the Alps, the Dolomites are striking in their unique formations and coloring, No matter what part of the Alps you may have visited, a hike through the Dolomites is like no other. In the words of John Ball, a visitor "who has visited all the other mountain-regions of Europe, and remains ignorant of the scenery of the Dolomite Alps has yet to make acquaintance with Nature in one of her loveliest and most fascinating aspects."
The Dolomite valley is called the Alpe di Siusi and is Europe's largest high Alpine meadow. The area has over 1500 species of flowering plants, including the mythical edelweiss. It is also home to the Alpine marmot, a favorite of the locals. Upon first seeing the meadow, many of our tour members remarked how it reminded them of scenes from the Sound of Music. As you gaze across the meadow, you feel like twirling around and singing! Of course, if you sing too loud, everyone will know you are a tourist. But, who cares?
The Main Course
Bolzano
Bolzano, Italy, was our home base. The city is a blend of both German and Italian cultures. Residents speak either Italian or German, but usually not both. Bolzano is a bustling city quite different from the tranquility of Hallstatt. It is home to the Free University of Bozan-Bolzano and the Italian Army Alpini. |
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The 5000 year old iceman Otzi is on display at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology and is well worth a visit. The story of his life and his demise are quite touching and the artifacts, including his body, are remarkably preserved. The Bolzano Cathedral roof is faced with diamond patterned green roof tiles and an array of curious-looking gargoyles. There is a lively market on the streets of Bolzano, with a panorama of colorful fruits and veggies, flowers, cheeses, meats and other goods. We discovered la dolce vita on display in the form of a happy crowd on the streets enjoying a wine-tasting festival, complete with food stands and a brass band.
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Hiking the Alpe di Siusi
We had been to the Dolomites one May when the lifts were still closed. Since that time, hiking the Alpe di Siusi had become a longing I couldn’t shake. Now, as I sat in the open air lift, with the breeze in my face and my feet swinging freely, I was rising ever closer to my destination. There were the gray stones of the jagged Dolomites rising before me. The spiky peaks and somber colors of the Sassolungo and the Schlern, with wispy clouds hovering low, imparted a sense of mystery and foreboding. |
Below the mountains, the meadow cheerily unfurled its green carpet across the earth, its wildflowers gently blowing in the wind. The ginger and white cows lazily munched on grass beneath the azure blue summer sky, while the bells tied round their necks echoed across the valley floor. As I trekked through the meadow, I felt all of my senses begin to stir and then heighten to a booming crescendo.
From the sound of the cow bells ringing to the sight of the green meadow, from the smell of the fresh grass to the taste of the rarified air as I breathed it in, I was awash with exhilaration. As I paused to gaze about, I could feel the artist’s brush strokes and the wet of the paint as I felt myself being drawn into the panoramic canvas.
From the sound of the cow bells ringing to the sight of the green meadow, from the smell of the fresh grass to the taste of the rarified air as I breathed it in, I was awash with exhilaration. As I paused to gaze about, I could feel the artist’s brush strokes and the wet of the paint as I felt myself being drawn into the panoramic canvas.
Culinary Delights
The cuisine of South Tyrol offers a choice between rich and substantial German fare and simple Italian dishes. While German food abounds, pizza, pasta and gelato are also plentiful. Since we were there for two nights, we chose to try both!
The Nussbaumer restaurant, where we dined with our tour buddies, offers tasty pizza and a selection of beers served up by a charming German waitress. We had just enough room for gelato afterwards, chocolate for David and vanilla panacotta for me.
The Nussbaumer restaurant, where we dined with our tour buddies, offers tasty pizza and a selection of beers served up by a charming German waitress. We had just enough room for gelato afterwards, chocolate for David and vanilla panacotta for me.
As you hike through the Alpine meadows, you can enjoy a relaxing lunch at one of the huttes (huts) along the way. We stopped for lunch at Molignon Hutte, where we had a board brimming with superb cured meats, sausages, cheeses and marinated vegetables, washed down with a great tasting beer. You can't beat the taste of salty meats and cheeses and cold beer as you rest on an outdoor picnic table in the middle of an Alpine meadow!
German specialties found in South Tyrol include speck (a smoked ham), breads, apple strudel, potatoes and dumplings. Determined to try at least some of these dishes, we chose a Rick Steves' recommended restaurant called the Batzenhausl, which I highly recommend. The salad was crisp and colorful and was followed by an authentic German dish of noodles and cheese with tomatoes, speck and onions. Al dente pasta mixed with rich cheeses, salty speck and tomatoes made for a delightful blend of all things tasty. David had Schlutzkrapfen (South Tyrolean
ravioli) with a spinach filling and a handcrafted beer made on the
premises, which he proclaimed as scrumptious. We were stuffed, but did find room for one
more gelato at Eccetera; mine was chocolate chip.
Delicious Moments
The Local Flavors
German Charm. Our first night at dinner, we were served by an adorable, charming German waitress who graciously humored us, especially the guys. She spoke fair English and we managed to have some amusing conversations with her. She even consented to have her picture taken with the two men at our table.
Alpine Marmots. We met a local couple at the Molignon Hutte, who were pointing at the mountainside and talking excitedly. We asked them what they saw and they said “momenter”. They explained how the animal makes a noise to warn of something coming. We believe they were referring to the Alpine Marmot, which we would later learn is quite popular throughout the Alps. The Marmot somewhat resembles a beaver, but without the tail. Marmots are available everywhere as stuffed animals, drawings and on t-shirts, but we never quite grasped the fascination.
If you go... make a point to see Otzi the Iceman at the archaeological museum We had seen him previously, so we didn’t go this visit, but I highly recommend it. The story, the artifacts and the Iceman are all quite remarkable. Getting to the Alpe di Siusi requires a few connections. If you preplan your route, you will get there much quicker. From Bolzano, we took a bus to a small town named Seis. From there, we caught a gondola up to Compatcsh and then took an open air lift to the Panorama trail to start our hike. It is a breathtaking experience that you'll never forget. Also, be sure to walk about at night. You never know when you’ll find a festival or celebration. The Europeans love a good street party.
Alpine Marmots. We met a local couple at the Molignon Hutte, who were pointing at the mountainside and talking excitedly. We asked them what they saw and they said “momenter”. They explained how the animal makes a noise to warn of something coming. We believe they were referring to the Alpine Marmot, which we would later learn is quite popular throughout the Alps. The Marmot somewhat resembles a beaver, but without the tail. Marmots are available everywhere as stuffed animals, drawings and on t-shirts, but we never quite grasped the fascination.
If you go... make a point to see Otzi the Iceman at the archaeological museum We had seen him previously, so we didn’t go this visit, but I highly recommend it. The story, the artifacts and the Iceman are all quite remarkable. Getting to the Alpe di Siusi requires a few connections. If you preplan your route, you will get there much quicker. From Bolzano, we took a bus to a small town named Seis. From there, we caught a gondola up to Compatcsh and then took an open air lift to the Panorama trail to start our hike. It is a breathtaking experience that you'll never forget. Also, be sure to walk about at night. You never know when you’ll find a festival or celebration. The Europeans love a good street party.