Hallstatt
"It throws up not a single wave, and the throne around it rests deep and sunny and solitary in its damp green - and a small boat glides forward, tracing a glistening band." - Adalbert Stifter on Lake Hallstatt
Just a short distance from Salzburg lies Hallstatt. It is a magical place, a picturesque village carved into the rocks on the edge of a tranquil lake where the only footprints are left by the boats and small fishing skiffs that gently glide across the surface. When you arrive in Hallstatt, you are greeted by a village square overlooking the lake filled with colorful buildings and flowers, with benches that beckon to you to sit and stay a while.
The Main Course
The Parish Church
In the village, up a slight hill is the parish church. Outside the church is a small, carefully tended cemetery ablaze with flowers planted by loved ones. The word is that the grounds of the small cemetery provide one of the best views of Hallstatt and I heartily agree. The Church, itself is a miniature version of a cathedral with gilded altars and an ornate pulpit. The grounds of the church also contain the Beinhaus (Bone House), which is a place of second burials. |
|
The Bone House contains a collection of painted skulls engraved with the owner’s last names. It is one of the last bone houses in Austria and is reported to contain one of the most remarkable collections of skulls anywhere.
|
The Hike - The Wrong Way!
We decided to take a hike up, so that we could get a better view of the lake and the town of Hallstatt. We climbed up some stairs behind the church and found ourselves on a very steep upward path. We climbed straight up the hill toward the salt works, where we were able to catch some extraordinary views which are invisible from below. We ran into a couple from England and asked them for directions. They were quick to tell us that we were climbing the path the hard way! |
We should have ridden the funicular up and climbed down. We laughed and told them we were up for it. Boy, were they right! When we finally crawled up to the funicular at the top that goes down from the salt mines, we found you can only purchase a ticket at the bottom (I guess they don’t expect anyone to hike up!). So we had to climb back down. We took a wrong turn and ended up on a trail closed due to landslides, but eventually we made it back down still alive and laughing. Beware: This is a very steep climb upwards, so be prepared for some heart pounding if you choose this route. But if you do decide to take this hike, you won't regret it.
Culinary Delights
Our hotel, the Gruner Baum, has an inviting deck perched on the lake, which makes a relaxing place for lunch. We shared a scrumptious caprese salad with pesto and a Hallstatt-style antipasti with fish, sundried tomatoes, salad greens, olives and pickled cucumbers with a basket of bread.
For such a small place, Hallstatt has quite a variety of restaurants. The Hallstatt specialty is fresh fish from the lake, both Reinanke and trout. We set out to find a restaurant serving the local fish and ended up at Braugasthof Restaurant for dinner, where we were joined by three couples from our tour. Some of us tried the fresh Reinanke, while others had the trout. We all agreed that the fried Reinanke was not very meaty, although its taste was pleasant, but the trout was delightfully moist and hearty-tasting.
Delicious Moments
The first view of Hallstatt carved into the hill overlooking the lake.
I was overcome with thoughts of that iconic view of Hallstatt you always see in pictures or on the Rick Steves’ videos. You know – the one that says you know you just have to go there someday to see it for yourself. It was amazing to actually be gazing upon it rather than viewing it through a photograph..
Awakening to the sight of the Alps and Lake Hallstatt outside our balcony door. It was an extraordinarily unique view on a quiet, serene morning. We got out early so that we could get some photos and enjoy the quiet time.
The beautiful flowers. Neatness and order are important to the Austrians and you can see this in their flower boxes. They really take advantage of their short summers by planting colorful purple, pink, red and white geraniums, petunias and other bloomers in neatly kept flower boxes. They must have village-wide agreements to plant colorful flowers, because every place you pass by is brimming with colorful blooms.
The Local Flavors
Skinny Dipping Germans. The hotel deck is right next to the landing. As David was swimming and I was wading in the evening, we met several German couples above us on the deck, eating dinner. One of the guys told me I should go in and when I told him it was too cold, he said “You just have to believe in it”. I asked him how to do that and he replied “Just jump right in”. I told him I couldn’t do that because I had a skirt on and he said “No you must swim naked, like the Germans” as they all laughed heartily. I think they were enjoying the repast…especially the beer!
Towel-draped Austrians. In the morning, as we were walking through the quiet, sleepy village, we observed the local store owners opening their shops. One of the restaurants owners came outside on the restaurant deck to take his breakfast dressed only in a bath towel around his waist. From his nonchalant attitude, I can only assume this is an everyday occurrence!! I snuck a picture or two, as I don’t typically see this in the U.S., but decided to defer to his privacy.
Towel-draped Austrians. In the morning, as we were walking through the quiet, sleepy village, we observed the local store owners opening their shops. One of the restaurants owners came outside on the restaurant deck to take his breakfast dressed only in a bath towel around his waist. From his nonchalant attitude, I can only assume this is an everyday occurrence!! I snuck a picture or two, as I don’t typically see this in the U.S., but decided to defer to his privacy.
If you go..… consider spending your time above ground. Our tour members who took the salt mine tour agreed that the Salzburg salt mine tour was preferable to this one. I would definitely recommend the steep hike we took if you’re in for some calisthenics. Alternatively, you could take the funicular up and climb back down. If you go during the summer, consider taking a swim suit for a refreshing dip in the lake.