Fussen
"...the location is one of the most beautiful to be found, holy and unapproachable, a worthy temple for the divine friend who has brought salvation and true blessing to the world."
- King Ludwig II of Bavaria, to Richard Wagner on the building of Neuschwanstein Castle
Leaving Bolzano, we traveled to Germany, to the land of fairytale castles and legendary kings. Our trip would ultimately take us to Fussen, the home of King LUdwig II's last and most grand castle, Neuschwanstein. But first, we stopped to visit the Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany at over 9,700 feet high.
The Main Course
The Zugspitze
When we began our skyward ascent toward the peak of the Zugspitze, the elevation was 4700 feet. Before it was over, we would swiftly soar to above 9700 feet. As the clouds rolled in, we climbed onto a large gondola and readied for the ride. As the gondola passed over each transom, it groaned and swayed up and inward towards the mountain face as if it was going to disappear into the mountain through a secret passageway. Gazing down through the clouds as we reached the top, there was a lofty sensation of being above the world. |
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As the clouds began to retreat, we were treated to some exquisite views of the jagged gray rocks gracefully surrendering to verdant green valleys and clear cerulean lakes below. Glaciers and small pools of blue ice sat frozen to the mountainside. The sharp peaks of the mountains were capped with snow, while the land far below was in full summer bloom. Our ride up took us to the Austrian side. Only a few steps away was the German side, where we had lunch outside. Even though it was quite cool at around 32-35 degrees F., it was pleasant enough for a beer and brat.
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Fussen
Fussen is a charming little town in Bavaria which sits quietly on the banks of the Lech River surrounded by the Alps. It is adorned with vividly colored homes and shops. It is known for its violin making, but more famously for its castles, Hohenswangau and Neuschwanstein. The Museum der Stadt Fussen houses a surprising collection of antique stringed instruments from the 1700-1800’s, such as lutes, mandolins, guitars and violins. Any one who plays a stringed instrument or has an interest in musical instruments should carve out an hour or two to visit the museum. |
Neushwanstein
Climbing the steeply sloped hill to pay a visit to Neuschwanstein Castle (New Swanstone Castle), I found myself reflecting on the life of King Ludwig II of Bavaria, who commissioned the castle to honor the operas written by his beloved Richard Wagner and to provide himself a refuge from the world. I feel sadness for the misunderstood Ludwig, whose only desire was to be left alone with his cherished music and his fanciful castles. Neuschwanstein is the last castle built by Ludwig, shortly before his death in 1886. |
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It was a grand plan, but only 15 of the more than 200 planned rooms were completed. On seeing these 15 rooms, I cannot imagine what else Ludwig had envisioned. Every room is inspired by a Wagnerian opera and covered in paintings and exquisitely carved wood, from the ceilings to the walls and even some of the floors. There are massive columns, gilded gold trim and crown shaped chandeliers and candelabra inlaid with colorful glass gems throughout the castle. The crown room contains a massive gold crown chandelier that can be lowered for cleaning. From top to bottom, the design and architecture are exquisite. The exterior of the castle is splendid as well, with a variety of architectural styles based on Ludwig's travels and his vision. It would have been a magical place to dwell indeed. Sadly, Ludwig died only a few months after he moved to the castle, and it was never completed.
Culinary Delights
After riding a swinging gondola up to the highest point in Germany, where the air is cool and the views are majestic, what to eat? The smell of giant bratwurst sizzling on the grill and the bubbly sound of pomme frites dropped into hot oil makes the decision obvious. While sitting at an outdoor picnic table in freezing weather, a fine German beer is also in order.
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Bavarian cuisine is rich and satisfying. Traditional dishes include Schweinsbraten (roasted pork), kartoffelsalat (potato salad), stecklerfish and bratwurst with sauerkraut. In Bavaria, beer is a basic food group. There are a variety of beers, but there are several common types that can help you choose the beer that is right for you. Weissbier (white beer) is a wheat beer, but also contains hops and barley. Pils (pilsener) derives its distinctive flavor from hops. Helles beer is a light beer, similar to a Pilsener, but sweeter with less hops. Dunkles is a dark beer, with a stronger taste and darker color due to the addition of roasted malt. You can also find beers mixed with various beverages, such as soda water, coke and lemonade.
Our hotel boasted a lively dining room, the Zum Hechten, with chalkboard specials, laughing locals and delectable authentic Bavarian dishes. I ordered the Bavarian Gestchnetzeltes farmer's style, which featured pork slow cooked to perfection in a rich brown gravy then smothered in mushroom sauce and served with tender homemade spatzle. Dave had a perfectly cooked fish dish with potatoes.
The Aquila was a recommended restaurant that offered pleasant outdoor seating and a not-so-traditional Bavarian menu. David ordered Pasta Bolognese made in the Italian tradition and heartily endorsed it, I opted for the comfort of turkey simmered in a creamy mushroom sauce. For dessert, we shared a sweet warm apfelstrudel with powdered sugar, vanilla ice cream and chocolate syrup. Wow!
Delicious Moments
Gliding up to the peak of the Zugspitze. The gondola was gently swaying on the cable as we climbed up to reach the summit. Most of my life has been spent at an elevation of around 200 feet, where the only hills are ant mounds and speed bumps. Reaching the peak and contemplating the breathtaking views below instilled in me a sense of wonderment akin to magic. To think that these awe-inspiring vistas had been sitting here my whole life just waiting for me!
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Gazing upon Neuschwanstein. My thoughts turned to the story of King Ludwig and his death shortly after he moved to the castle. With a vision so fervent and powerful, it saddens me to know that his time to enjoy it was so fleeting. Looking upon the mere beginning of his blueprint, I was struck by his remarkable ability to turn the musical notes of Wagner into such a palace of devotion.
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The Local Flavors
Feasting with the local clientele. Seated in the lively dining room of our hotel, we listened as the banter grew louder and merrier. As we surveyed the room, we observed that the room, which had been quiet when we arrived, was now packed with local Germans, immersed in lively conversations and drinking beer. The Germans sure seem to enjoy life! I just kept wondering what they were all saying!
Men being men. I left my glasses at the Aquila and we hurried back to the restaurant, only to see the couple who had been seated beside us frantically waving and making circle gestures around their eyes. We guessed they were trying to tell us that the glasses had been found. Dave pointed to me and told the couple they were my glasses. The gentleman half of the couple shook his head and said “Teepical” in his German accent and then laughed. Quite honestly, I failed to see the humor!
If you go.... Consider making a reservation online in advance to see Neuschwanstein. That way, you’ll know exactly when to go and can plan the rest of your day. Some of our tour members didn’t do this and ended up with odd times. If you can only see one castle, visit Neuschwanstein. Members of our tour who went to Hohenschwangau, the childhood castle of King Ludwig, gave mixed reviews, but most preferred Neuschwanstein. Consider reading a book about King Ludwig II before you go. It will certainly increase your appreciation for his amazing castle. Be sure to hike over to Mary’s Bridge to get that iconic picture of the castle.
Men being men. I left my glasses at the Aquila and we hurried back to the restaurant, only to see the couple who had been seated beside us frantically waving and making circle gestures around their eyes. We guessed they were trying to tell us that the glasses had been found. Dave pointed to me and told the couple they were my glasses. The gentleman half of the couple shook his head and said “Teepical” in his German accent and then laughed. Quite honestly, I failed to see the humor!
If you go.... Consider making a reservation online in advance to see Neuschwanstein. That way, you’ll know exactly when to go and can plan the rest of your day. Some of our tour members didn’t do this and ended up with odd times. If you can only see one castle, visit Neuschwanstein. Members of our tour who went to Hohenschwangau, the childhood castle of King Ludwig, gave mixed reviews, but most preferred Neuschwanstein. Consider reading a book about King Ludwig II before you go. It will certainly increase your appreciation for his amazing castle. Be sure to hike over to Mary’s Bridge to get that iconic picture of the castle.