Salzburg
"the Salt Fortress"
Salzburg… is a mountain town with a rushing river running right through the center, everything in the rain various shades of green and brown. – Jonathan Carroll
Our tour began in Salzburg, Austria. We arrived by train from MUnich, Germany one day early to shake off the jet lag. This also gave us an additional day for seeing the sights.
The Main Course
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The City of Salzburg
The city of Salzburg is a delightful mix of new and old, with a rich history of medieval fortresses and famous musicians. The Salzach River, once used to haul salt by boat, runs through the middle, dividing the new and old parts of the city. The main bridge, Staatsbruke, is decorated with gaily colored flags. Other bridges used originally for different purposes flank the Staatsbruke, including one with the tacky but obligatory "locks of love". The old town is, of course, where the history is, as well as hundreds of shops and restaurants, which spill over the bridge into the edge of the new town. |
Getreidegasse in the old town is a busy thoroughfare with exclusive shops lining it. The street has been a major road since Roman times, and was once the only major road across Salzburg heading to Bavaria. Mozart's birthplace and a small museum are there and the stores are filled with Mozart-themed souvenirs. There is an impressive cathedral, where Mozart played the piano for a brief period. Large wide open squares with fountains provide a break from the narrow, crowded streets. As you cruise the lanes of the old town, be sure to look up over the doors. You'll see some quite interesting faces and sculptures.
The Hohensalzburg Fortress
As you cross the bridge into the "old town" in Salzberg, suddenly you see it, the fortress, perched on a hill high above the city. Its presence is imposing as it boasts the title of the biggest medieval castle in central Europe. Dominating the city skyline, it is easy to understand why it has never been conquered since its construction in 1077. The castle has served as a residence for Archbishops, a fortification, a military barracks and a prison. |
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Today, the fortress is open to the public and the frequent site of musical concerts. AS you walk through the castle, you can feel the presence of the former inhabitants in the princes' quarters. You can also tour a museum and there is a Marionette museum, a weapons room and a torture chamber. The commanding views of the city and surrounding area alone are worth the trip. You reach the fortress via the funicular that lies at the bottom of the hill.
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The Monchsberg Trail
Take the elevator up to the level of the fortress and pick up the trail. Catch the first view of the city far below as the trail courses through the woods and along the ridges. It is a peaceful walk with picturesque views of Salzburg, the Salzach River and the surrounding countryside. Along the trail is the Burgerwehr, the remains of a section of the medieval fortification around Salzburg. |
Berchtesgaten
Imagine the feeling of standing where Hitler once stood. As I traveled to Berchtesgaten, I wondered if I would be able to truly get a sense of what that time was like. During the tour, our incredibly knowledgeable guide put that question to rest. She was able to bring the full force of the events to life, painting a stark contrast of the images versus the reality. In the Documentation Center, photographs of Hitler's officers stare down grimly as the guide weaves the story of each of them and their roles in Hitler's regime.
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Other pictures show the realities of the German life and the horrors of the work camps. The Eagles' Nest (the Kehlstein Haus), Hitler's famous hideout, is perched high on a mountain and has remarkable views of the surrounding countryside. The purple wildflowers blow gently in the peaceful breeze as if evil had never roamed these hills. The house sits atop the mountain just as it did then, except for the colorful blue umbrellas on the restaurant deck. Inside there is a grand room where meetings were held. Access is through a golden elevator. Far below the Eagles' Nest lies an underground "town" that was being constructed so that Hitler could maintain command if Berlin were to fall. As you walk through the concrete hallways, you can see the initials and notations carved by the workers. The grand plans for even more underground structures provide testimony to Hitler's realization that eventually Germany would be taken. The story is told that apparently Hitler only visited here a few times, but Eva Braun loved to visit here and sunbathe.
The Mirabell Gardens and Palace
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Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau had Altenau Palace built in 1606 as a testament of his love for his wife. The palace was renamed Mirabell by his successor. Today Mirabell Palace is home to the Mayor's office and the municipal council. The Marble Hall, formerly a ballroom and concert venue for Leopold Mozart and his children, is considered to be one of the most beautiful wedding halls in the world.
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The famous gardens contain the Pegasus Fountain surrounded by four groups of statutes. Brightly colored flowers and landscaped grounds gracefully compliment the statuary throughout the gardens. At the edge of the gardens, the Dwarf Garden contains a group of oddly shaped guys and dolls who peer out impishly in the dappled shade of the nearby trees.
Culinary Delights
The Austrian standard cuisine was formalized in the early 19th century in
Vienna and is generally known as "Wiener Kuche" or Vienna Cuisine. Regional cuisine was less defined, but in general, ingredients tended to be plain. Even so, you can find a variety of cheeses, cured meats and fresh salads as well as traditional Austrian dishes.
For a quick lunch or dinner, duck into the Alter Fuchs, where you'll find cold plates and heavier meals and a private outdoor patio. For our first meal in Salzburg, we had a deliciously fresh tossed salad and a plate of cheeses, nuts and fruits. We couldn't identify all the cheeses, but there was quite a variety, ranging from sharp to mild to just right flavors. The beer was tasty, too.
Vienna and is generally known as "Wiener Kuche" or Vienna Cuisine. Regional cuisine was less defined, but in general, ingredients tended to be plain. Even so, you can find a variety of cheeses, cured meats and fresh salads as well as traditional Austrian dishes.
For a quick lunch or dinner, duck into the Alter Fuchs, where you'll find cold plates and heavier meals and a private outdoor patio. For our first meal in Salzburg, we had a deliciously fresh tossed salad and a plate of cheeses, nuts and fruits. We couldn't identify all the cheeses, but there was quite a variety, ranging from sharp to mild to just right flavors. The beer was tasty, too.
Cafe Tomaselli also has great pastries and cold platters. We tried their meat and cheese tray and shared a pitcher of wine for a light dinner. The cafe interior is upscale, with wait persons in aprons and uniforms, but the atmosphere is casual and inviting.
We enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch at the Salzach Grill in the Hotel Sacher. We chose a table at the outside patio overlooking the Salzach River. I had the local dish of "gulasch" with "semmelknodel" (beef goulash with potato dumplings). It was scrumptious, with tender slices of beef in a rich tomato sauce and a creamy whipped potato. In the heat of August, it was a welcome break to find a restaurant that served water with ice in it!
One of our most memorable meals on the entire tour was at Zirkel Wirk. A marvelous little restaurant tucked into a quiet side street in the old town with flowers blooming all around, it was a welcome respite from the busy streets of Salzburg. I had a dish of tender, mouthwatering pork medallions in a robust brown sauce with potatoes. David tried the head-on trout and gave it two thumbs up also. Unfortunately, their website indicates that they closed shortly after our visit due to new lease demands, but were anticipating a reopening elsewhere.
The Saran Essbar is an interesting little restaurant that opens to one of the streets in old town Salzburg. It serves both traditional Austrian dishes and international dishes. I opted for the traditional weiner schnitzel and it was quite tasty, but my favorite was the rich, sweet old-fashioned Viennese apfelstrudel. It was served with powdered sugar and vanilla ice-cream and was the highlight of the meal.
Delicious Moments
First view of the fortress. Crossing over into the old town and looking up at the massive stone castle, keeping watch over the city and its inhabitants, I try to imagine how it looked in medieval times, without all the other buildings and development around. I wonder at what it must have been like to live up on the hill, overlooking the picturesque countryside of Austria.
Standing where Hitler once walked. As we walk through the tunnels of the underground town, I see the notes of the workmen carved into the concrete and I try to go back to what their lives were like. Thousands of forced laborers working round the clock to build a bunker that would never be used. They were unpaid, underfed and lived in dank, dark conditions. I ponder what their thoughts were and whether they had any hope for a better life. I am saddened by their lot.
The Local Flavors
The Architect. We met a gentleman on the train ride into Salzburg who was an architect in charge of the preservation of some of the castles in Northern Germany. I can't imagine how fascinating that would be. He and Dave had a long discussion about the architecture of Salzburg. The architecture apparently changed to Baroque under certain Archbishops, but the city overall is Italianesque.
Bartenders. As the rain began to fall in old town Salzburg late one afternoon, we stopped in at Zum Eulenspiegel, a small restaurant and bar. The bartenders there were quite charming. I ordered a glass of wine with some difficulty, trying to ensure that I was served a type that I preferred. When I ordered the second glass, there was a different waiter. As I attempted to explain what I had ordered previously, he said, "Ah, you want the good wine". I wish I had known it was that simple the first time! I observed the waiter mixing a glass of wine with mineral water and drinking it down heartily I asked if it was a wine spritzer and he said, "Yes, it keeps my motivation up and keeps me smiling". Drinking on the job! Only in Europe!
The Chef. During our dinner at Zirkle Wirt, we were quite surprised to see the Chef come out and sit down at a nearby table with family and friends. As he chatted, he was smoking and imbibing of an alcoholic beverage quite eagerly. We were very glad that we had already been served our meal! How laid back life is in Europe.
If you go... I would highly recommend reserving the tour to the Eagle's Nest before you leave the states. We took the tour recommended by the Rick Steves' travel agent and were very glad we did. Our guide was not only knowledgeable, but very passionate about the history of Hitler's regime and Germany. We arrived in Salzburg a day early after two days in Munich. On the My Way tour, Salzburg is fairly laid back so you may only need to plan one day extra before the tour, as you can use Salzburg to recover. If you are at all interested in going underground, visit the Salzburg salt mines. Our tour members thought this tour was preferable to the one through the Hallstatt mines.
Bartenders. As the rain began to fall in old town Salzburg late one afternoon, we stopped in at Zum Eulenspiegel, a small restaurant and bar. The bartenders there were quite charming. I ordered a glass of wine with some difficulty, trying to ensure that I was served a type that I preferred. When I ordered the second glass, there was a different waiter. As I attempted to explain what I had ordered previously, he said, "Ah, you want the good wine". I wish I had known it was that simple the first time! I observed the waiter mixing a glass of wine with mineral water and drinking it down heartily I asked if it was a wine spritzer and he said, "Yes, it keeps my motivation up and keeps me smiling". Drinking on the job! Only in Europe!
The Chef. During our dinner at Zirkle Wirt, we were quite surprised to see the Chef come out and sit down at a nearby table with family and friends. As he chatted, he was smoking and imbibing of an alcoholic beverage quite eagerly. We were very glad that we had already been served our meal! How laid back life is in Europe.
If you go... I would highly recommend reserving the tour to the Eagle's Nest before you leave the states. We took the tour recommended by the Rick Steves' travel agent and were very glad we did. Our guide was not only knowledgeable, but very passionate about the history of Hitler's regime and Germany. We arrived in Salzburg a day early after two days in Munich. On the My Way tour, Salzburg is fairly laid back so you may only need to plan one day extra before the tour, as you can use Salzburg to recover. If you are at all interested in going underground, visit the Salzburg salt mines. Our tour members thought this tour was preferable to the one through the Hallstatt mines.